The best cycling routes around Vaux-Sur-Mer

Very beautiful natural arch carved by marine erosion with the tides, which gives a special air to this fishing hut (carrelet) that is worth stopping for a look. A typical snapshot of the Charente coastline.

The carrelets are today part of the emblematic images of Royan and the Côte de Beauté. However, contrary to what the current landscape might suggest, the large pontoons with huts are relatively recent. A much older fishing The word carrelet originally designates the square net used for very simple fishing. Fishing with a carrelet has been attested in the region since at least the 18th century. At that time, these were not yet the elegant huts on stilts that we know today. The fisherman used a square frame with a net, which he lowered into the water and then quickly pulled up. This fishing was particularly practiced by women and could provide a dietary supplement. The turning point of 1900: the birth of the pontoons It was around 1900 that the carrelet began to change its nature. With the development of sea bathing and seaside tourism in Royan, fixed structures appeared on the quays, rocks, and cliffs. In Royan, they can be found in particular on the rocks of Pigeonnier and at Pontaillac. Initially, they were essentially simple masts equipped with a winch. The users were often merchants, liberal professions, retirees, or wealthy owners rather than professional fishermen. A particularly interesting old photograph shows the conche de Pontaillac in 1918, with fishing installations. The carrelets become leisure spots Between the two wars, and especially after 1945, the carrelets multiplied. The generalization of paid holidays, the increase in free time, and the development of popular holidays favored their transformation into real small holiday resorts. The installations gradually became more substantial: cliff → footbridge → pontoon → hut → mast and winch → square net Owners often built their own installations with wood or salvaged materials. In the 1950s, this practice experienced a real boom around Royan. Why are there so many carrelets around Royan? The relief of the Côte de Beauté is particularly well-suited for this. They can be found in particular: * in Royan, at the Pointe du Chay, at Pigeonnier and at Pontaillac; * in Vaux-sur-Mer, particularly towards the conche de Gilet; * in Saint-Palais-sur-Mer, along the headlands of Terre-Nègre and Perrières, towards the Pont du Diable and the Concié; * in Saint-Georges-de-Didonne, particularly towards Suzac; * in Meschers-sur-Gironde, along the cliffs and coves. The carrelet is indeed identified today as a viewpoint in Royan. The 1999 storm: a catastrophe The carrelets are extremely vulnerable to storms. The storms of 1996 and especially 1999 destroyed a very large part of the installations in Charente-Maritime. On the coasts of Aunis and Saintonge, nearly 90% of the approximately 700 carrelets had been destroyed during the January 2000 storm. They were then gradually rebuilt, with the help of owners and public schemes. Today: a heritage of Royan The carrelet is therefore not just a fishing equipment. It has become an element of the maritime and landscape heritage of Royan. The Musée du patrimoine du Pays Royannais classifies it as 20th-century maritime heritage and points out that the current installations are essentially the result of the development of this practice in the 20th century. An interesting historical point: the carrelets that we spontaneously associate with Royan today are therefore mainly the result of the evolution of seaside tourism after 1900 and their extraordinary development after 1945, and not the intact survival of a very old tradition of fishing huts.

Operation Frankton was a British raid during World War II against German ships stationed in Bordeaux. Its objective was to destroy the "blockade runners", merchant ships that maintained links between occupied Europe and the Far East. On the night of December 7, 1942, the British submarine HMS Tuna arrived off the estuary of the Gironde. The commandos launched their small folding kayaks, nicknamed "Cockles". They then had to paddle up the estuary at night to Bordeaux. Of the ten men engaged, only two – Major Herbert "Blondie" Hasler and Marine William Sparks – would survive the operation and eventually make it back to Great Britain. Six were captured and then executed by the Germans, and two died at sea. Why is Royan associated with Frankton? It is particularly interesting for Royan: the Royan coast is on the operation's maritime route, near the mouth of the Gironde and the Cordouan sector. The memory of the operation is today commemorated in Royan by a stele dedicated to the "heroes of Operation Frankton", located on the esplanade of the 5th Marching Battalion of the West Indians and Guyanese, in the sector of Fort du Chay. The City of Royan also organized a major commemoration in 2012-2013 for the 70th anniversary: laying the first stone of the memorial, inauguration, exhibition, conferences, and even a kayak raid on the estuary symbolically retracing the operation. The route around Royan A particularly interesting point if you are in the area is to retrace the commandos' geographical route: HMS Tuna → off Cordouan / entrance to the Gironde → upstream along the estuary → Bordeaux → escape to Spain → return to Great Britain. The Royan – Saint-Georges-de-Didonne – Pointe de Grave – Cordouan sector therefore allows us to understand the first part of this incredible operation. A true "Frankton path of remembrance" now exists and also includes commemorative sites in Gironde and Charente-Maritime. An important historical clarification Different figures are sometimes found regarding the number of kayaks and participants, as sources do not all describe the preparation and launch phase in the same way. Royal Navy sources record 10 Royal Marines actually engaged in the five operational kayaks, while some tourist sources present six kayaks at the start, one of which could not be used. The film The Cockleshell Heroes, released in 1955, then made the story famous in the United Kingdom, under the name "Cockleshell Heroes" ("heroes of the cockleshells"). The film, however, takes liberties with historical reality.

Some magnificent houses date from the Belle Époque

Located on the commune of St-Palais-sur-Mer, at the tip of Terre-Nègre, it is intended to mark the southern passage of the Gironde estuary and to signal the presence of a dangerous sandbank, the la barre à l'Anglais.

The carrelets of Saint-Palais-sur-Mer are among the most emblematic elements of the Charente coastline. Their history blends traditional fishing, tourist development, and local heritage. 🐟 Origin of the carrelets Originally, the word "carrelet" referred to a square fishing net used since the 17th century. A precise description can be found as early as 1769, in the writings of the scholar Henri-Louis Duhamel du Monceau, who mentioned this type of fishing on the Saintonge coast. 👉 At that time, these were not yet the current huts, but simply a net operated from rudimentary structures. ⚓ Artisanal fishing structures The first local carrelets were simple wooden platforms, built by the fishermen themselves to stand above the water. They were mainly used to catch shrimp, fish, and crabs near the shore, without going out to sea. 👉 It was a family and coastal fishery, less dangerous than sea fishing. 🏖️ 19th – early 20th century: transition to a leisure activity At the turn of the 20th century, with the rise of seaside resorts like Saint-Palais, the carrelets evolved. Holidaymakers and notable figures adopted this practice: construction of fixed jetties, appearance of huts on stilts. The carrelets then became places for relaxation as much as for fishing. 👉 They already contributed to the postcard image of the coast. 🪵 After 1945: democratization and multiplication After the Second World War, the number of carrelets increased sharply. They became a symbol of popular leisure and conviviality. The transition was gradually made from a means of subsistence to a recreational activity. 🌊 Storms and reconstruction The carrelets are fragile in the face of storms: 1999: massive destruction (up to 90% in some areas) 2010 (Xynthia storm): new damage Many have been rebuilt identically, respecting tradition. 🏛️ Today: protected heritage In Charente-Maritime, there are about 400 carrelets. They are: integrated into the public maritime domain allocated by administrative authorization (often renewed every 5 years) Since 2018, they have been recognized as cultural heritage of the department. 👉 In Saint-Palais, they can be observed in particular: at Pont du Diable at the conche du Concié at the Puits de l’Auture

The puits de l’Auture is an emblematic natural site located in Puits de l’Auture, north of the commune of Saint-Palais-sur-Mer. Its name often intrigues, and its history blends geology, local traditions, and maritime observation. 🌊 Origin and formation The puits de l’Auture is not a man-made well, but a natural formation: It is a cavity carved into the limestone rock by marine erosion. Under the effect of waves and infiltrations, the rock gradually collapsed, forming a sort of vertical chasm open to the sea. During strong swells or tides, water rushes in violently, creating spectacular eddies. 📜 Origin of the name The term “Auture” probably comes from Old French or the local dialect: It could derive from “hauteur” (height) or “autre” (other), evoking a high or separate place. Another hypothesis suggests a deformation of an old word related to a natural cavity or opening. No completely certain origin has been formally established, which adds to the mystery of the place. ⚓ Local historical role The site has had several uses or functions over time: 👀 Observation point Located on the rocky cornice, it served as a natural observation post to monitor the sea. Locals and fishermen could spot boats, storms, or dangers. 🎣 Fishing activities As elsewhere on the coast of Royan, particularly near the famous carrelets (fishing huts on stilts), the area was frequented by fishermen. The rocks around the well allowed for shore fishing or line fishing. 🌿 A remarkable natural site Today, the puits de l’Auture is mainly: A popular walking spot along the coastal path. A listed site for its landscape and geological interest. A remarkable viewpoint over the Atlantic Ocean, especially at sunset. ⚠️ Caution The site remains fragile and potentially dangerous: Unstable cliffs Powerful waves during storms It is advisable to stay on the marked trails.

📍 Introducing the Gilet Cove The Gilet Cove is a small, natural beach on the oceanfront, located on Boulevard de la Conche de Gilet / Boulevard de la Falaise, in the town of Vaux-sur-Mer, just before Royan. 🌿 It's a sheltered, rocky cove, appreciated for its tranquility and more intimate setting compared to the larger urban beaches nearby. 🏖️ At high tide, the sea can completely cover this small beach, making the space very limited; at low tide, you can enjoy a patch of sand and rocks for relaxing or swimming. 🧭 Features & Tips 📍 Type of place: small, unsupervised beach, nestled among the rocks with sand and cliffs. 🏖️ Tides: access is best at low tide — at high tide the beach can disappear underwater. 🐶 Animals: prohibited from April 1st to September 30th (subject to municipal regulations). 👣 Access: via stairs from the boulevard above, surrounded by villas with sea views. 🚫 Lifeguard services: no lifeguard station or marked services. 📍 Location La Conche de Gilet is often considered the last small beach in Vaux-sur-Mer before reaching Royan/Pontaillac when following the coastline from Saint-Palais-sur-Mer.