The best traffic-free bike rides in Dorchetal

From the bridge, Eisenhüttenstadt looks like a painting: a backdrop of red-tiled roofs, a quiet church, and pastel-colored rows of houses nestled along the shore like traces of past summers. Below, a pleasure steamer cruises along, leisurely like an old gentleman on a Sunday stroll. Its paddle wheel puffs, its bow plows through the water, as if time were a flexible concept. The Oder-Spree Canal glitters in the light, as if trying to reflect the sky—and a little of itself. To the right, the Brandenburg meadows; to the left, the tidy melancholy of a city that has experienced much and made little of it. You can see the chimney of the steelworks, but it's not smoking. Perhaps it, too, has the day off. Anyone traveling here quickly realizes: This is no postcard idyll. This is the real East. With history at its core and a future in doubt. And that's precisely what makes it beautiful – in a quiet, unpretentious way. Looking back here isn't a step backward, but a quiet forward. The wind does the rest. And if you're lucky, a heron will greet you from the shore at the end – like a guardian of a time that doesn't intrude, but remains.

There are moments when you're not quite sure whether you're cycling through Brandenburg or have wandered into a Baroque painting. The Neuzelle monastery complex is one of those moments. Suddenly, it appears – as if parked by mistake, in the middle of the landscape, as if someone had made a mistake sorting through the world heritage sites. The view from the Oder Cycle Path is famous – and rightly so. You roll along, lush green beneath your tires, and then – a mirage of sandstone, plaster, and Baroque boldness. The towers pierce the sky, which, depending on the time of day, hangs dramatically smoothed or dramatically gathered. The facade glows – not garishly, but rather with a warm self-confidence, as if it knew its effect but had no desire to make a fuss. If you stop – and you should – you'll quickly realize: It's not just a building. It's a counterpoint to Brandenburg's reserve. Neuzelle is the exclamation at the end of a sentence of Brandenburg's sobriety. In summer, it smells of meadows. In autumn, of fallen leaves. In winter, perhaps of silence. And in spring, of departure. The paths are well-maintained, the view unobstructed – ideal for a break with a view or a few contemplative minutes standing still. Those who continue on take something with them. Not just a photo, but that rare feeling that something wasn't quite right – and that's precisely why it was perfect.

Neuzelle Monastery, beautiful complex with St. Mary's Church and monastery garden

A very pleasant path away from cars

Beautiful place with a view of the monastery. I recommend at sunset.

The path behind the trees provides good protection from the wind.

The city and main church was destroyed during the fighting for the Neisse town from February to April 1945. Since then, its walls and tower have risen into the sky as ruins. It thus shared the fate of the churches along the Oder-Neisse border.

Truly a baroque highlight! Turning from the Oder dike onto the 3.4km access road to Neuzelle, after crossing the floodplain forest, the backdrop of the monastery church opens up. Impressive!