The best road cycling routes around Aumes

Montagnac is distinguished by the presence of numerous remarkable buildings from the golden age of wine in the late 19th century: functional houses known as "vigneronnes", manor houses, urban estates, and wine-growing districts. Furthermore, its status as a city of royal fairs from the 12th century to the Revolution allowed it to endow its historic center with magnificent private mansions such as the Hôtel de Paul de Brignac, the king's representative, which houses a magnificent French painted ceiling.

The Canal du Midi, formerly Canal Royal, is a 17th-century technical feat conceived by Pierre-Paul Riquet to connect the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. Today, it is above all a place for relaxation and discovery, where heritage, nature, and conviviality blend.

Built between 1887 and 1892, the Saint-Aubin church is the most recent chapter in a religious history spanning over eight centuries. It succeeds a first medieval church, mentioned as early as 1220, and then the former castle chapel which served as the parish church from 1749. Its elegant neo-Gothic architecture, its original high altar, and its stained-glass windows donated by village families bear witness to the prosperity of Aumes at the end of the 19th century. Fragilized by significant structural cracks, the church has been temporarily closed to the public since November 22, 2024, to ensure visitor safety, pending the necessary work for its reopening. Just a short walk away, the former chapel is still visible and today houses an archaeological museum, recalling that the village has been occupied since the Iron Age. This succession of places of worship makes Saint-Aubin a remarkable testament to the evolution of Aumes through the centuries.

The cooperative winery of Alignan-du-Vent bears witness to wine history. Created in 1936 under the name "Les Vignerons d'Alignan-du-Vent", it was born in a difficult context for small producers, facing the wine market crisis and the need to unite to better promote their harvest.

Pézenas is not just about Molière, even though the playwright stayed there several times between 1650 and 1656 under the protection of the prince de Conti. The city was for a long time one of the most influential in Languedoc: the States of Languedoc met there regularly, and Louis XIII, Richelieu, or the prince de Conti stayed there. While strolling through the narrow streets, keep your eyes open: many doors still retain their original knockers and ironwork, testaments to the skill of Pézenas artisans. A tradition that is perpetuated today by the Musée de la Porte et de la Ferronnerie, unique in France. Finally, one last curiosity: the famous Maison de Molière should not be misleading. Despite its name, there is nothing to confirm that the playwright lived there. Local tradition rather holds that he liked to settle in the barber Gély's shop, where he observed the inhabitants and their foibles, a source of inspiration that is said to have fueled several of his future characters.

At the entrance to Pézenas, the Domaine de la Grange des Prés is one of the most prestigious Renaissance ensembles in Languedoc! Much more than a country house, this residence was the scene of political events and hosted several important figures. Its architecture, gardens, and vast estate bear witness to the influence of Pézenas in the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1587, Henri Ier de Montmorency, governor of Languedoc and Constable of France, acquired the lands of Prés and commissioned the architect Jean Thomas to build a residence inspired by Italian villas. Completed in 1595, the estate quickly became renowned for its gardens adorned with grottos, pools, and fountains. The Estates of Languedoc met there in 1614, then the estate received Louis XIII in 1622 and Richelieu in 1629. After the fall of Henri II de Montmorency, the property passed to the princes of Condé and then to the prince of Conti, a patron of Molière, who stayed there several times when his troupe performed in Pézenas. Listed as a historic monument since 2015, the estate remains one of the most remarkable testaments to the Renaissance in Occitania.

At the Portiragnes lock, you enter a section almost at sea level, where the canal crosses former salt marshes and wind-swept wetlands. Built at the end of the 17th century, this single lock is notable not only for its shape but also for the landscape it heralds: that of the Aude and Hérault coastline.

Nice little town that really has its charm, I passed through quickly but it would be worth lingering!